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"Great." What about resolution, lines/millimeter? What about contrast? What about edge sharpness? Nothing here except "great."

I bought one of these in 96, used it till early 2003 when I went Digital. I gave it away in 2010.

The M4 ain't too shabby either.

Better with IR filter for that film

thanks for sharing

1 wabt. to. buy. one. where. from. thamks.

where. i buy. one. thank.

The shot of the bridge and roads looks good on my computer, I can't fathom how good it must look in person. Can I get a copy?

BRAVO, and Lovely, as too have much fond Respect for German Craftsmanship that I too have a few models of the SLR Line, as I have my share of Pentacon's F, and the Praktina SLR with all Zeiss Jena Lenses, and acquired a Wirgin Edxia SLR 35mm camera as I clean it, and fixed the shutter stickiness. What you have is Cherish Models, and Go Out and shoot Film. 😀😀📸📸

This camera apparently has two iso settings. 80 and 400. Tiger 200 is not the ideal film for this camera because it will underexpose by a stop. Probably why the colors need work in post. Of current available films, I imagine orca 100 would give the best results.

Ilfotec HC, it’s long life and fine grain, well controllable contrast as well. Also can be used standard developing as well.

I have a very strange autofocus problem on my F90x. It will not autofocus if I hold it in the regular horizontal way. If I turn it upside down it will autofocus great everytime. Also if I hold it normal (horiz.)then begin rotating it around the axis of the lens, it will autofocus at the same point or angle of rotation every time. The point where it starts AF is always about 20-30 deg. from being fully vertical. It will always AF if it is upside down. I have cleaned the lens connections and tried other lenses and still have the same problem. please help

any new advice on film brand and ASA ??? Thanks.

Great video thank you!

I studied old cameras as a hobby for years, so I was surprised to discover this camera (actually several versions) recently for the first time. I looked for it on eBay to see if I could buy one cheaply just to play with and study. Well, not so much! For a confirmed working unit, you are looking at more than $250. There seem to be a number slyly listed, so they are probably damaged or not functional in some way, but still posted around $150-180. Surprisingly, there seem to be a number of small accessories made for the camera which are fairly available, including a modest telephoto lens. Not mentioned here, but exploded in some length elsewhere, is that there is no film pressure plate to flatten the film during exposure. This appears to be built-in a permanent lack of image sharpness, which should not otherwise be a problem with the licensed Tessar lens made by Bausch & Lomb, one of the major lens makers in the US when the camera was made.

The manual for this camera is available on the butkus site. It explains several things that are not intuitive about the operation of this camera.

Very nice reaview. Watching this video 7 years after and the $20 camera is now typically a $140 camera because of the waist-level finder and social media. The camera is beautiful though.

In 2023, the DDX has lost a lot of its appeal due to the very high cost.

I think you were wrong and they are fairly easy to fix, you seem to know what your talking about and I hope that you didn’t just break it up, as I’ve seen this model in conditions that you would consider this one as mint. In fact there is a guy who is on you tube who spent 30 mins as these are very easy! But

The Metz is a very simple design very similar to my Vivitar 225 flash which is a little taller but still compact. Also has both hot shoe and PC sync. However it's strictly a direct flash. I also have a professional Sunpak 522 which comes with a bracket. It's PC sync only but you can use a hot shoe adapter that has a PC sync port. It is a little heavy but I don't mind using it.

Thank you for this!

Anyone know how much it would be to sell one?

The 'shortfalls' of this camera as you call them are features. It's just not meant for taking close focus photographs so lacking close focus is not a shortfall :-) I've been using it for the past 4 years. I would advise any one trying to figure it out to figure out what this camera does best compared to traditional 35mm full frame cameras. More importantly, have fun in figuring it out! I've tried the F8, F7 and the F6 both black and silver. Ironically a black F6B has been my best performer. I don't know why, but it might have to do with its previous owner being a camera store employee....

I suggest trying to find some expired film . I think some of the older stuff was better quality. I’ve had good results, considering the limitations of the film and the tiny negative. I most recently got some pleasing results with Agfa XRG 200 and some Konica film sourced from “NARC expired film” on eBay . That was shot with a Minolta 110 zoom mk2 though which allows me to easily overexpose the film to compensate for the age

according to the owner manual, you set No. 1 in the red window, THEN set the film counter in the camera to a point between S and 9, and close the red window and advance the film until it stops at 9. From then on you do NOT use the red window and the film should advance and stop automatically. The camera gives 10 shots per roll, it would seem, and counts down, not up, with the 10th shot being set on S. Haven't actually shot mine yet.

do you know how to load the film? there is a spindle in mine but it looks odd

There was a time when most people used this technique. It seems to have gotten lost as folks started learning from half-assed YT videos on processing B&W film. Do this and lose the foolish squeegees, and you are home free. If you are psychologically incapable of not wiping down the film, wet two fingers in your final Photoflo solution and wipe the film through two wet fingers, once only.

Thank you so much for making a video showing the photo taking process. There are a few others on here describing it and of course the manuals online but I was hoping someone would do a step by step. I totally get in now!

FE2 ganggg

I just get this len 21mm F4 LTM for my Z6ii, It is very wonderful. I love it for street photography. I need to close my subject.

A video about camera types which is constantly out of focus lmao

SKX007 ? Mine is 013 ;)

which one has strong mirror shock? Pentax 67 or Pentacon Six TL?

I’ve had my f3 since 1982, still shoot with it and it’s stock lens. Why fix it when it an’t broken! I have been thinking about picking up a top view mirror for it, do you still have yours and do you like it. My eyes aren’t the same anymore and was thinking this could be an easier way to make sure image is in focus.

It's worth noting that Yashica ran two series of TLRs - knob wind and the more advanced crank wind (a la Rollieflex). The D represents the top of the knob wind line and has several advantages. The post-1970 models have a f2.8 viewing lens, giving a bright viewfinder. The knob wind cameras are also lighter than the crank winds. The knob winds also have the accessory shoe, which is convenient for attaching a shoe-mount meter, still available new. The crank wind cameras do not have a space for the shoe and do not have double exposure capability, but do have built-in meters, not particularly good. If you always advance the film after shooting you will avoid accidental double exposures. Having to cock the shutter before shooting means you can leave the shutter speed at a high setting and not worry about straining the shutter spring because the spring isn't activated until you cock the shutter. The D is may favorite Yashica TLR, and is not the most expensive.

you mean hp5 :)

i shoot a lot with my FE2, but the prices of films are just getting a lot more expensive, and i hate shooting digital (you just cant beat the tactile feeling of a mechanical camera) just got this one today, and hopefully it i can make the most out of it and keep doing my hobby !

What is the white dot on top of the camera? On the prism.

Pure sex

This video shows examples of photos taken with the original camera. "TLR Lubitel 2 cameras, Lubitel 166U examples of black and white photos" Watch and be amazed!

Sorry, I didn't mean to moan like that. 😅

i just picked one up from japan last week!!! i love mine! expecting a 35mm lens also from Japan next week.

Hey man, i have an pentax 110 but i keep getting blank rolls. Please help me. I donk know whats going on, i replaced the batteries and cleaned everything but it still doesn't work....;(

You have the SE version 🔥🔥🔥. Nice

Nice video and images. I'm testing a Widelux F6 and a Widelux F6B now to evaluate if i'm going to keep one of them. I'm leaning towards the F6 because despite being an older model, it is barely used and the silver finish looks really nice. It's good to see these kind of long term reviews because they give more insights for my decision. Thanks!

My sensor still works but I’m having trouble understanding when I should be using the green half or the black half of the wheel to gauge my shooting settings. If you have any insight that would be helpful

Cool

Not 'upside down', just horizontal mirroring :). After 20 years of GAS, I now have two 35mm slrs; one a Nikon EL2, the other my 1968 1a (my dad's first family cam) with waist level viewfinder. The Nikon is a tank, but still requires more care & maintenance than the Exa. Oh, and ND filters for the win on a summer day :).

DDX appears to be a liquid version of Ilford Microphen, a powder PQ developer. Active components are Hydroquinone and Phenidone. Nothing really new or special. Throw in some potassium sulfite, borax, boric acid and a liquid preservative pentasodium (carboxylatomethyl)iminobis(ethylenenitrilo)tetraacetate. Newer developers tend to replace hydroquinone with ascorbic acid (vitamin C) which is much less toxic than hydroquinone (xtol for example). But then xtol seems to die suddenly and without warning. Buying long lived developer is like buying food that never spoils. You're buying a lot of preservatives that do nothing good for you. And you have to add snake oil to patent it. DD-X is about the most expensive developer you can use per roll. Think I'll roll my own. BTW kodak HC-110 and its clone ilford HC are also liquid PQ developers.

Your photos with the 166B seem to have a sharpness problem at infinite range. My Lubitel 166B that I got at ebay from Ukraine had the same problem and I found out, that both lenses were not perfectly adjusted. I corrected this by rotating the lenses relatively to each other, and now I get sharp photos. When using an Ektar 100 the picture quality is very good.